Review: Masters of Style, Celebrating the Stories Behind Italian Fashion

"2011 marks 150 years since Italy became a unified nation which has subsequently created some of the world's most famous artists, industrialists and designers". These were the words to describe the exhibition. Although, yes, to a certain extent, it was enjoyable to walk around looking at photographs of advertisements for these high-end fashion houses, the exhibition lacked heart and soul. The gallery itself being a glaring white background for photographs which tell a story from a far away country, seemed detached from anything portrayed. Each picture although beautiful in itself, with much craftsmanship put into each final end product, was described in a paragraph which did not aid to describe but more explained the running to the photograph. Although disappointing, there were some little gems which really stood out, mainly old photographs taken at an era dating back to Italy's more charming side with photographs representing campains which sold a mood rather then an accessory, here are some of my favourites.

 Gucci

Armani

Prada

Prada

 

Jeremy Scott = Barbie Mania

Jeremy Scott Fall 2011

70'S COSTUME

GIORGIO ARMANI

GUCCI

YVES SAINT LAURENT

DOLCE AND GABANNA

Is it just me or is there a pattern emerging? Whether it be woman in fur or shirts, flaunting is definitely acceptable practice here for the new 2011 advertising campaigns. And why not. After all, this is what we demand of Haute Couture. A lot of sleeked back hair and men's hat with the added touch of a quiff in Dolce and Gabanna's look make for a very interesting take on 70s attire. When Gucci's fall show was commencing, Frida Gianinni mentioned Anjelica Huston as one of her style influences. Anjelica, known for her jet black hair and distinctive nose, was the ultimate it-girl in the 70s, ever so glamorous and diva-like with her boyish side coming out from time to time. It seems as though the time has come where fashion can be outrageous and the line between fashion and costume become more and more blurred which just adds to the fun of it all. The extravagance and exuberance of some is exaggerated, in sharp contrast to the androgynous choices of others.

ANGELICA HUSTON

Swimming Away

Finished are the days of neon and diamante thongs, when it comes to swimming, it seems as though we have reverted back to the older and more flattering costumes. Here are some of the key pieces that rock my boat. From simple slimming black to figure flattering white, to the 80s iconic Baywatch look, the more you cover, the better.

Brigitte Bardot at 20 years of age, photographed in 1955.

Simple in black. No need to look further the Chanel to channel this eternal look, complete with classic Chanel jacket and a big white hat to finish.

Chanel Resort 2012

Chanel Resort 2012

To get Brigitte's complete look, Salvatore Ferragamo have recently released their Resort 2012 collection with stunning monochrome outfits, over-the-top hats with this number really shouting out to me.

Salvatore Ferragamo, resort 2012

Marilyn Monroe in a figure hugging one piece. Calvin Klein, known for their simplistic touch, have come out with beautiful flowing beach dresses to complete the look.

Calvin Klein Resort 2012

Marilyn Monroe holding a Evans Sweson Frame white umbrella during a 1949 photo shoot

Urban Outfitters £60

Pamela Anderson

Chloe Sevigny's 3rd successful appearance in fashion was filled with 80s influences, from the leather skirts to the big denim jackets and of course bright REDS

Chloe Sevigny for O.C Resort 2012

Chloe Sevigny for O.C Resort 2012

Marni and Symmetrics

Marni Fall 2011

Marni manages to make fashion an art form in the purest sense, with every look centred around a shape. Whether the form of the clothes, the signature Marni striped-silhouette or the symmetric circles overtaking, the colours are carefully chosen to shout out look at me, without it being over the top (ie in that typical bold 90s Kristopher Kane neon way). The Marni way uses mismatched earthy colours such as mustard yellows, mud browns and spring greens which should look off but definitely just come out bang on. Notice the clashing high socks in the earlier seasons which I think are oh-so fun and actually ever so flattering!

Marni Fall 2008

Marni Fall 2005

Kristen McMenamy and Grey Hair

Known for her outrageous statements, Kristen spearheaded a new look in the early 90s by shaving off her eyebrows and cropping her hair, is now ditching the hair dye and opting for a more natural Grey hair look. She gives out the air of the witch in the Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, especially in this shoot for Dazed and Confused in massive fur coats and boots. She exudes confidence in an eery sort of way, no wonder Lady Gaga, Pixie Geldof, Lindsay Lohan and co are upping their bathroom bleach time.

Kristen Mcmenamy, 45 and still Modeling.

Pamela Love, Eddie Borgo and Homebase Jewelry

American Eddie Borgo, winning second place at CFDA VOGUE FASHION FUND AWARDS, started up his own jewlery line, in the same generation of designers such as Pamela Love, as mentioned below, but also Tom Binns, Delfina Delettrez and Ligia Dias, breathing new air to jewelry with vintage inspired designs with a gothic twist. Eddie Borgo's geometric punk inspired cone bracelet here remains precious and beautiful using white gold to create the iconic piece. There is something quite Damien Hurst in all this, with fashion and art merging quite comfortably. He is launching a special line of seven pieces all in Pink Gold as well as collaborating with J.Crew (as worn by Atlanta on the Post below) which will be presented at the next CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards. His Spring/Summer padlock themed collection as modelled by Giovanna Battagli in a Frida Khalo insprired look, is quirkier then ever, with chains and padlocks taking over her body.

 Giovanna Battaglia in Eddie Borgo jewelry for US Vogue. Photo: Paul Maffi

 Eddie Borgo Orchid Cuff Fall 2011

Recently interviewed by French Vogue, the New York based designer and drummer started up her own jewlery line in 2006 after working as an assistant to painter Francesco Cement. Her new Spring 2011 Collection is typically grungy, with African American influences. Rumours say she will also be designing some more affordable pieces for Topshop, in what is being called a Secret Store confirmed to be located either in NYC or London. The collection is typically Pamela, with Dream Catchers galore, and a more light-hearted folk themed southwestern design with hearts and arrow covered necklaces and bracelets.

 Pamela Love pictured here for French Vogue wearing her designs.

In Chanel Sabot, check out Post on Clogs below

Pamela Love Jewelery

 Pamela Love for Topshop, the Secret Store

 Tom Bins is like the Ready Made of jewlery designing. Safety Pins, baricade wire, you name it, he's made it into jewlery, and Gold Plated it. Makes you kind of want to just jump to Homebase, pick up a few items and and wear them.

 Tom Binns Jewelry

Homebase Jewelry